It is definitely enough. However I would love to earn twice this amount.
These are some of the questions which can be asked from you when you will give the interview for the post of the painter. You will have to be innovative as well as attentive if you want to excel in the field of painting.
GW Superglue and 2 part epoxy sometimes for stronger bonds.
Castrol SuperClean - found in automotive aisles. Be careful when you use this - wear a mask and gloves if possible, don't take chances with your health like I do!
Paper towel. I also use my lips to maintain a good tip on my brushes. By the time I'm done a painting session, my bottom lip has a gross line of paint stuck to it. Very unattractive, but effective.
I have many, but a couple are spam email and painters not updating their websites - I need stuff to look at! Oh, and Forgeworld's prices.
I prime it black and drybrush it a few times using successively lighter shades. For healthy grass I use greens, for dead grass I use browns and bones.
Reading White Dwarf, internet articles and tutorials, and simply asking people how they did stuff. Most of my techniques were gleaned from other people, only a few are my own inventions :)
I use London Grey and Space Wolves Grey 50/50 (although I have been experimenting with different greys, such as shadow grey). Then I add either white or bleached bone to this for several layers (up to white). Then, when dry, I give the areas several very thin washes with bestial brown and dark flesh, and sometimes vermin brown. Sometimes I sprinkle salt on the wash, let it dry, then brush it off (trick I learned in White Dwarf).
I use boltgun and highlite it with the appropriate amounts of chainmail and mithril silver. When that is done, I give the metallic layers several very thin washes of brown, yellow and green inks - making sure to siphon off any puddles using my brush.
I keep a dropper syringe on my desk that contains a mix of 1/3 blending medium by Winsor and Newton, and 2/3 water. I add a drop or two to my paint mix, depending on how thin I want it. For times when I paint one color for quite a while, I might go back and add more drops as needed.
I actually prefer to paint red over black, which most people do not like to do (I think most like to paint it over white). I use a mix of Vallejo Cadmium Maroon (recommended to me by Finn Kisch) and Reaper Aged Red Brick (recommended to me by Anne Foerster) as a base. To this I add red gore for a few highlite layers, then blood red. Depending on how dark a red I want, I might go up to pure blood red and then add a little fiery orange to that for final highlites.
Sometimes just top 40 radio, but 95% of the time I listen to instrumental soundtracks like Braveheart, all three LOTR soundtracks, 13th Warrior etc.
Lately Sascha Buczek blows me away nearly every time he posts a model. Also Cyril, Matt Verzani (who's prices have me eternally jealous, and I love his hyper-color style), and Mayne Thiele.
Chaos Black, Reaper Walnut, Vallejo Flat Earth, Codex and Fortress Grey (mostly for bases), every flesh tone you can think of, Vallejo Dark Sand, GW Bleached Bone, Tamiya Smoke and Clear Red, Yellow and Green (great for bases and slimy parts on models).
I use plaster molded rocks sold at hobby stores, real rocks, aquarium rocks, reptile bark, static grass, flock, sand in various grits, plasticard in various styles (you can buy it plain or with grooves and tiles pre-engraved), metal modeling mesh (sold at hobby stores), Woodland Scenics Water Effects, brass rod, guitar strings (usually I use these for actual model conversions), 2 part epoxy mixed with inks (for making standing pools and puddles). And of course various bitz for bodies etc.
Aside from the obvious brushes and brush tub, I use small modeling files (I like the ones that are rounded on one side, flat on the other), a sculpting tool (for epoxy putty work), a jewelers saw, the dremel, a desk-vice (also made by the dremel company), exacto knives (careful!), a steel ruler (which I often lose), scissors, a dust buster (shockingly useful to keep the area clean of metal filings), an airbrush, plastic pallets from Michael's craft store, a desktop paint shaker from Micro Mark, tweezers (small modeling ones), and clippers - one set for cutting metal and one set designed to cut plastic parts off sprues (very useful! Thanks Mark!).
Nope. Bought one (the task lamp version) and it just takes up space on my desk. I don't use it.
I use cheap swing arm lamps with GE Reveal bulbs, 100 or 60 watts, depending on my mood
I have a Nikon Coolpix 995, with a good quality tri-pod for taking pics. The 995 is I think equivalent the newer model # 4500 if I'm not mistaken (I might be). Good camera for macro work. I usually have the settings at 8 and 15 for setting 1, and 9-10 (there are 2 numbers at the bottom of the screen, I have no idea what they are called). 8 makes for a brighter picture than 15, but can sometimes make whites and light colors too harsh.
For drybrushing and base work (hard on brushes) I use old Games Workshop brushes I have from a long time ago. For the main paintjob, I use Winsor and Newton Series 7, sizes 000,00,1 and 2. I also use a GW tank brush sometimes - those are excellent for large models in terms of laying down primer or drybrushing large base areas. My tank brush has lasted me a very long time.
In order of "pleasure to paint, most to least", I would rank the manufacturers (for me, personally):
- Rackham (Confrontation)
- Games Workshop
However, all 4 make excellent models and each have their own flavor.
I keep planning to and never finding the time - I prefer using my free time to paint! But if possible, I'd like to do one sometime before my 50th birthday.
Choice of primer color should not be an "all or nothing" affair. For figures that use a lot of metallics, I use black. For figures using lots of lighter colors (perhaps white robes) or NMM, I use white. All of my bases are primed black before drybrushing. And for most of my figures, I will prime different parts of the model with different colors (for example, I will mask off faces on black primed models, and prime the face white - flesh is hard to paint over black). I use spray cans (GW black primer is excellent, but I dislike their white), airbrush priming (for nice smooth consistency, I only do batches of figures with the airbrush due to setup time) and brush-on priming (usually Vallejo White GameColor primer).
Most of the time I use my variable speed Dremel, witer joints I use a slightly larger bit and paper clips cut into straight lengths.
I use Vallejo (both the Model Color and GameColor lines), Games Workshop (including their inks), Reaper, and Tamiya Clear acrylic paints.
I get asked this a lot more frequently now that I've been doing some snow-themed auctions. I use a product called "Micro Balloons" - the brand name is Sig. I mix "some" (it's not precise I'm afraid) with white glue and water until it forms a paste similar to wet runny toothpaste. Then I glob it on with a toothpick and let it dry. Voila! I bought my micro-balloons at a hobby store that sells remote control airplanes - I think the product is mostly meant for that use.
Game stores are, naturally, the best choice. Some comic and hobby shops deal in miniatures, so ask around. And a lot of companies do mail-order for those who live bereft of their product sold locally. The yellow pages is where to start, after that you get the feel of where to look.
Shake or stir them often, put plastic wrap between the cap and bottle on paints that come in glass jars. Acrylics reconstitute fairly well with the addition of water and a good stirring. Oil-based do same with thinner. Try and keep your paints in a place where temperature remains fairly stable. Users of both Polly S and Humbrol have had good results from storing their paint upside-down. The paint itself augments the seal and keeps all air out.
Two good methods have been presented in rec.games.miniatures. The first comes from Steven Loren Lane, and is used without permission: % "Well, on top of getting the smallest brushes available, you can always cut them down to an even smaller size. I have several brushes that have only a few hairs on them. These are very useful brushes. I would also recommend for the very fine detail to set the object up so you can use both hands to hold the paint brush as still as possible." And was followed up by Steve Gill: % "Another useful tool is a 0.13 mm spirograph ink pen, a couple of splodges of colour in the right place and you can pretty it up with the pen. I used this technique for 6mm heraldry." Yet another use for tech pens. They are also very good for shield devices and clothing patterning.
Start with the eyes. Then do the face in whatever shade you choose. Now add a touch of white to the flesh tone to get a slightly lighter shade and go back over the nose and cheekbones. A light orange makes defined but natural-looking lips. Remember, red lips are a product of makeup, not nature. Some painters prefer to put the eyes on last, but others say it's too hard to keep from making the effect pop-eyed when done last. Try whatever method you prefer. Moustaches are best if dry-brushed, paint beards a slightly redder or darker shade than the hair and dry brush with the same colour you use on the hair. There's nothing wrong with a 5-o'clock shadow on an appropriate figure, either. Dry-brush it on in a shade slightly darker than the hair. Once you get comfortable with faces, experiment with scars or tattoos. You might amaze yourself.
Finest brush you can get, a steady hand, lots of patience, and good lighting. Fine detailing includes (but is by no means restricted to) faces, eyes, jewelry, shield devices and banners, small clothing details, weapon decoration, insignia, and armour detail. For many of these, some of the highlighting/washing/drybrushing tips above apply, for others a whole new range of techniques are necessary.
The common miniaturists glue is Zap-A-Gap, available at nearly all stores which sell paints. It's thick, holds well on both metal and plastic, and fills gaps and cracks. Also of this type are a line of cryanoacrylates which come in various-coloured bottles, each coded to its type, and a blank space for the local store's name or Wargames West (in the US, of course). Super glue is often used to join pieces; it dries brittle and a good drop might snap the connection. Its redeeming feature is speed of bonding. Epoxy is excellent for permanent bonding and building up areas when modifying. The bonds it makes don't break when jarred, and almost nothing will remove it once it has set (the author has never heard of set epoxy being removed, but refuses to use absolutes and be later proven wrong). Epoxy also comes in different formulas for different materials. Duco cement is a good all-purpose bonding agent. White glue, such as Elmer's or Aleen's Tacky, is good for adhering paper and groundcovering to plastic and metal surfaces. White glue does fatigue, however, so if it is used, a sealing agent overall will help keep your pieces together. For building up areas and the like, nothing beats ribbon epoxy. For more information on cryanoacrylate see section 7.A.a. above.
It's an acquired skill. To convert a miniature requires a lot of imagination, steady hands, patience, and a few out-of-the-ordinary tools. Costumes have to be obliterated, faces changed, weapons removed or added or changed. In all honesty, the processes involved are more numerous than can be addressed in this FAQ. Therefore, only the most common modifications will be addressed. Tools: To properly modify a miniature, you're going to need: files (round, triangular, square, flat), the smaller the better X-acto knife and several replacement blades glue, preferably Zap-A-Gap, possibly epoxy nail scissors or tiny wire cutters needle-nose pliers, the smaller the better sandpaper and/or emery boards a hacksaw, the finest you can get any new pieces you want to add (weapons, etc.) % The most common modification is to change one weapon for another. For purposes of explaination, a fantasy figure will be used, the change being from sword to battleaxe, assuming the sword had been molded as one with the hand. First, clip or cut the sword off on either side of the hand, being very careful not to damage the hand. The new piece may be one cut from another miniature, or one acquired from a weapons pack. If it is the latter, you will need to measure it against the hand and cut out part of the handle to compensate. The next step is to make holes in either side of the hand where the handle enters in order to insert the new parts. An X-acto blade or file may be used. A pin drill would come in handy about now. Once the holes are made, a drop of glue is placed in each one, then the handles are carefully set in place. The glue should show, as the extra is needed to keep the parts in place. Hold until set, possibly reinforce with a little tape, a brace, or some sort of clamping arrangement, and let set. After the glue is thorughly dry, a file or emery board can be used to clean up the excess, Avoid using a knife or razor blade, as you're likely to take off too much glue and the weapon will simply fall off again. % Another common modification is to make a miniature suitable for superhero use. The easiest way to do this is to file and sand the clothing smooth with the rest of the body, then paint on the costume of your choice.
25mm is easier to detail than 12mm or 6mm, some miniatures are less or more detailed than others. Again, this is much a matter of personal preference and what you want the miniatures for. Look over as much as you can before selecting starter miniatures, unless you have your heart set on something. Just don't pick something so fussy or detailed that you'll get frustrated with your new hobby on your first project. Also, refrain from doing that `special' one until you've had a little practice. Some offerings of types in the 25-30mm range are:
Citadel: tend to have large areas and broad features, and are recommended `beginner' pieces if you can't find something better. Once you have the feel of painting, can be masterpieces.
Heartbreaker: Everything good about Citadel plus some of the most excellent modelling ever done in this style of figure. And costs less, too.
Metal Magic: again, heavier features, thus good for the novice.
Mithril: pre-primered and a little above 25mm, broad detail Ral Partha: tend to have sharp detail, good once you have the basics down.
Grenadier: detail can be hard to follow, but that can be a plus.
Soldiers & Swords: Good variety in both individual figures and quality. Some are excellent, some aren't worth the purchase.
Simtac: Good figures with fine features and nice detail. A little difficult for the beginner. Various military miniatures: varies greatly, use your own judgement.
This depends entirely on what you're using the miniature for. If it's a display model, then you can get fancy. If it's for military gaming, you'll want a durable, realistic look. If it's for fantasy play you'll want durability and likely not too much fuss. Standard materials for bases are: the plastic slottabases many companies both supply with their products and sell seperately, pennies or flat washers, cardboard (not recommended - bends too easily), tiles, wood, sheet metal, matt board (available at art supply stores), and magnetic strips (often bonded to one of the above materials). Filler and water putty have both been used with success, and someone also has claimed to make his own bases out of hot glue. The general rule, of course, is the more use the miniature gets, the stronger the base material should be.
Drybrushing is the best method of highlighting any large area or area with repetetive detail, such as armour. For faces, hands, buckles and the like, highlighting can be achieved by taking a slightly lighter shade of the base (mixed with white or a lighter tone) and going along the raised areas lightly. A fine brushpoint is required, as is a steady hand. For faces highlight the chin, nose, and cheeks. For hands go along the backs and each finger. For other detail, pick the spots that should show up best and give them the lightest highlights. It's common to highlight twice, each time getting lighter in tone and finer in line. A bit of blending is required to keep things looking natural, but this blending is easier than the large-surface technique. Simply keep a damp brush handy and brush very lightly toward the darker areas. Again, this technique takes practice, but is worth the effort when the miniature is completed.
First off, drybrushing is most effective when used with a colour a shade or two lighter than the base. White drybrushed over black primer also makes for a very good painting base. It also looks good as a stand-alone colour scheme on some figures. Take your desired colour and an old brush, as drybrushing wears brushes out and tears them up (the author has had good success in using cheap watercolour brushes for large drybrushing projects with acrylic paints, but for smaller areas a better-quality brush is still necessary). Dip it into the paint until the tip is saturated, then blot on a paper towel until no paint can be seen on a dark brush, or a light one looks pretty clean. Take the brush and gently draw it along the raised parts you want highlighted. A little paint will stay on the highest edges and give great depth. Many painters like to highlight in stages, lightening the shade a little with each level. This can be either overkill and a pain or an excellent technique for brightening and preserving detail. Practice yourself and decide.
Washing comes before drybrushing. Take a shade darker than your base color and dilute it until it's about the consistency of milk. Now, brush it across, gently. It'll flow into folds and crevasses. Makes cloth look real good. Remember, you can always add wash, so start light and work your way up. Don't be afraid to wash, then darken and wash again, until you've reached the effect you like. Wash yellows with yellow-orange or yellow-brown, flesh with light brown, white with bluish-white or gray. Experiment, only you can set your style.
Pick the colours you want for the major areas (skin, each piece of clothing and armour, hair, shield) and paint them on in layers. Think of dressing the miniature. Start with eyes, move on to face and hands, then clothing, armour, hair, lastly weapons. You aren't going for massive detail just now, you're only setting each area's base colour. Make certain the paint goes on smoothly and remember to paint from top to bottom. Once you have this part done, it's time for detailing. This is achieved by many different techniques such as drybrushing, washing, shading, and highlighting.
Get some paint, brushes, miniatures, and a space to do your work. There is no `secret formula' involved, and despite all the advice and information you'll get from this FAQ and other sources, the best method of painting is the one that works for you. If you prefer one type of paint to another, that's great. Painting is a hobby, not an exact science. Pick and choose, practice, relax, and enjoy yourself. Take advice only if you feel right about it. Be patient with yourself. Most painters have a box of the stuff they learned on, or have removed old paint and redone several of their miniatures. Good painting's a skill. Remember: PRACTICE. Try different materials and techniques. Don't take anyone else's word for it unless you're sure - and the practice will do you good.
I am a hard working individual who has always strive for excellence in his workplace. I take quick business decisions. I am capable enough to paint all sorts of planes. In short, I could prove to be very advantageous for your organization.
You must always prepare well for the interview stage. These questions would help you do so. Have fun and enjoy yourself!
I have worked with a reputed corporation of our city in several projects for about 3 years. I have gained a respectable amount of knowledge in painting. I have even painted some of the most famous office establishments in New York City.
A painter works with quite a few tools. The most essential tools of a painter are scrapers and sandpapers. Brushes and rollers are also very important for the job. It is also very vital to apply an appropriate paint on a particular plane.
I have gained a decent amount of knowledge in this field. I possess an associate degree in painting. This degree provides me an edge over other candidates.
The main reason behind me entering this field is my deep interest in the art of painting. I am a very good painter.
Let me tell you that my painting is sold at an average cost. I am able to earn around $5000 per month from my paintings.
Make sure that the name which you take must be a familiar one to you. You should know everything about him. Since you are already from the art side, hence you should know about that person. You can take the name of the famous artist as well like Leonardo Da Vinci.
I do not think that I would require seeing you more than two or three times. But if you will be in front then it will be much easier to paint you on the canvas.
Yes, I am a regular visitor to the police station. They always call me to sketch a person who has been seen by some witness. Let me tell you that I have been successful as well.
I am a die hard painter. I have won many awards since I started painting. I am definitely thrilled with the opportunity in your company. It is definitely a major chance for me. I have been involved in painting for three years.