Denier is how thread weight is measured. 1 denier = 1 gram per 9000 meters of thread. Typical deniers are 110D for very light weight fabric, 420D to 600D are common in shoes, 1000D for boots & bags.
2. What is ex-Works Price Purchase Term?
When you negotiate a shoe price you need be clear on where the finished shoe is to be delivered. Ex-Works means the Price does not include any shipping . The buyer would be responsible for collecting the product from the factory.
3. What is LOP or Labor Overhead and Profit?
LOP is a critical part of the shoe factories price for a shoe. The factory will add up all the material costs then add the Labor Rate , Overhead and Profit required. The LOP for a shoe can be 30% of the total cost of a shoe. Just a few dollars for a simple skate shoe up to $10 or $15 for a snowboarding boot. Some factories will add a percentage on to the material cost to account for the LOP. Other factories carefully calculate each component.
4. What is the Shoe Master Carton?
The Master Carton or Case pack for Production shoes is usually a 10 or 12 pack depending on the size of the shoe and shoe inner box. In the master carton the Inner boxes will be arrange so the warehouse worker can see shoe box end labels for size and color information.
Footbed or Insole is the foam padded mesh that your foot stands on. May be removable or may be cemented in. High end shoes will be molded EVA of PU foam – Low end shoes will be die cut EVA.
6. What is cutting interlock loss?
Interlock loss is the material lost when a big pattern part is cut. For example a classic one piece hiking boot pattern can't fit closely on the hide. The material in-between the parts is lost.
Insole Board A paper based board used to provide structure inside a shoe. For example, a stiff hiking boot will have a thick plastic lasting board. Also called Sockliner
This is the top, full grain layer of the hide, but the outer surface has been “brushed” away leaving a very soft nape suede like surface.
The Shoe last is the foot form that is used to set the shape shoes. The shoe last can be made of plastic, Metal or wood.
At the back or shoe shoe's top line, above the heel counter the shoe may have a dip in the center. This is the heel notch.
11. What is cupsole or Cupsole unit?
A shoe outsole type made of one piece of rubber. Called a cup sole as the sole unit “cups” the upper. Inside the cup can be EVA foam for rubber ribs egg crate pattern.
A color/material combination. A model of a shoe may have many colorways.
13. What is glue allowance or Glue Line?
The standard glue allowance is 2mm. The outsole glue may be applied up to 2mm above the outs top edge. This allows a good bond – but too much can turn yellow later and not looks good.
A new cotton material was used to produce that special part of the shoe.
fabric woven from cotton fibres
15. What is rubber sole Color Dam?
A color dam on a shoe bottom is a raised ridge and/or groove in a mold to stop the flow of rubber. A sneaker shoe bottom will have color dams dividing all the colors on the sole.
The cuff alignment allows the boot cuff to follow the line of the leg in the boot.
the lap consisting of a turned-back hem encircling the end of a material
17. What is egg Crate Rubber Midsole?
The Egg crate pattern of square or diamond shape walls may fill the heel of a solid rubber boot sole. They save weight but allow for sturdy sole unit. Egg crate may also be used to replace foam inside the midsole of an inexpensive shoe. Egg crate may also be used to level the inside surface of a rubber outsole to allow sheet cut midsole to fit properly.
18. What is shoe Parts the Mustache?
The Mustache is the shoe part attached to the shoe above the heel counter part. The classic sneaker will have a Mustache
A non-woven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for heel counter reinforcement on really cheap shoes.
The fitting of the shoe is approved.
making or becoming suitable; adjusting
21. Explain me what is eyelet?
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.
22. What are pantone colors & Pantone Chips & Pantone Books?
Pantone Inc. is a corporation headquartered in Carlstadt, New Jersey. The company is best known for its Pantone Matching System (PMS), a proprietary color space used in a variety of industries, primarily printing, though sometimes in the manufacture of colored paint, fabric, and plastics. It's the only way to make sure your colors match.
Usually made of Nylon webbing. A very common way to attached laces also called a ghilly loop. This style can be sewn under the eye stay to make a hidden lace loop
Those clients bought fashioned shoes.
planned and made or designed artistically
25. Explain me shoe Cement or Contact Cement?
Shoe cement is usually solvent or water based PU contact cement. Each part is coated with the cement and allowed to dry. The surfaces are then pressed together. Pressing is critical for a good bond. The PU cement cures in minutes, but a full cure may take days.
Usually binding is made of the same material as the material of the upper.
strip sewn over or along an edge for reinforcement or decoration
Ethylene vinyl acetate is the copolymer of ethylene and vinyl acetate. The weight percent vinyl acetate usually varies from 10 to 40%, with the remainder being ethylene. The most common foam used for shoe cushioning. EVA can be hot pressed or cold pressed, can be made in any color, in a range of hardnesses. This material can also be made by injection. EVA is the most common midsole padding but is also used in shoe uppers.
The shoe heel stabilizer is can be rubber, plastic or leather. The stabilizer is bonded to the upper and midsole on the outside of the shoe as a functional and style part. Very common on the classic cut and buff style midsole type.
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board. A lasting margin may be 15 to 20 mm wide.
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support. Will be made of EVA or PU foam.
31. Tell me what is parting line or outsole parting-plane?
The line in an outsole mold is made by the closing edges of the tooling. The tooling is split at the parting line. A mold may have one or 2 parting planes. Extra rubber may spread out of the parting line, this will be need to be trimmed off. A narrow tight parting line or parting plane is a sign of quality tooling.
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper. The shoe factory will use a metal or stone wheel.
33. What is ankle boot (noun)?
She prefers to wear an ankle boot than a high boot.
footwear that covers the whole foot and ankle
The Shoe Design Brief contains all the critical information for the footwear designer. Information like, who is this shoe for? What sport is the shoe designed for? What price is planned for the finished item? For What country? A detailed design brief will contain much of the information the shoe designer will need to get started.
Internal or external, the heel counter is the pattern part that covers the heel of the shoe. The internal heel counter can be made of rubber (for vulcanized shoes), thermo plastic (for cold cement shoes), chemi-sheet (for really cheap shoes), or leather for dress shoes. Depending on the shoe type the counter can be thin and soft or stiff and sturdy.
